98 or 99 Eclass diesel

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98 or 99 Eclass diesel

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98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/6/2007 1:56:54 PM

draaronr

Posts: 7
Joined: 3/4/2007
Status: offline

Can they run on B100 and homebrew?

Post #: 1

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/6/2007 8:09:19 PM

Drrty240D

Posts: 160
Joined: 7/30/2006
Status: offline

Sure, both cars have fluroelastomer fuel hoses to the best of my knowledge, so biodiesel in any mix from B20 to B100 should be no cause for trouble.

(in reply to draaronr)

Post #: 2

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/7/2007 12:51:19 AM

ForcedInduction

Posts: 893
Joined: 5/20/2006
From: Federal Heights, Colorado
Status: offline

They can but why would you want to fill the trunk of such a nice car with homebrew grease?

(in reply to Drrty240D)

Post #: 3

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/7/2007 6:41:58 AM

draaronr

Posts: 7
Joined: 3/4/2007
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: ForcedInduction

They can but why would you want to fill the trunk of such a nice car with homebrew grease?

well lets see it is better for the environment, and I don't want to do a waste oil, so it would be in the tank. that's why.

(in reply to ForcedInduction)

Post #: 4

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/7/2007 7:32:33 AM

uberwgn

Posts: 140
Joined: 6/21/2005
From: New England
Status: offline

You should make yourself aware of the cost of a replacement fuel pump...just in case

_____________________________

1999 E300D
2002 S210

(in reply to draaronr)

Post #: 5

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/7/2007 8:16:53 AM

draaronr

Posts: 7
Joined: 3/4/2007
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: uberwgn

You should make yourself aware of the cost of a replacement fuel pump...just in case

Please educate me on what you mean. If I buy B20 from the local station or buy B100 from a biofuel processor will I have an issue? Were you meaning if I make homebrew and I might need a fuel pump? What is the cost?

(in reply to uberwgn)

Post #: 6

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/7/2007 10:14:40 AM

Drrty240D

Posts: 160
Joined: 7/30/2006
Status: offline

FYI people who give these kind of warnings *generally* have not made and/or run biodiesel themselves. I have, and currently do. If you buy the commercially available stuff you have no worries because it will be properly filtered at the factory. If you make your own just be sure to filter the source oil properly during the manufacturing process and then filter the methyl esthers again before running it, and make sure to replace the vehicle's filters on schedule. Also make sure that all moisture is removed (either through water filtration or proper settling) before running your homebrew. IDK why you would need a new pump -- that's ridiculous.

(in reply to draaronr)

Post #: 7

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/7/2007 10:24:42 AM

draaronr

Posts: 7
Joined: 3/4/2007
Status: offline

Great thanks for the infomation.

(in reply to Drrty240D)

Post #: 8

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 3/17/2007 9:45:54 AM

ncof300d

Posts: 1
Joined: 3/17/2007
Status: offline

During May through October of 2005 I ran my 1999 E300 over 7,000 miles continuoulsy on commercial B100. It was an expensive venture, however there were no issues, whatsoever.

(in reply to draaronr)

Post #: 9

RE: 98 or 99 Eclass diesel - 8/6/2007 10:09:00 PM

Mr.Billyd

Posts: 9
Joined: 8/6/2007
Status: offline

Hello, I just love the idea of B100. I have a E300D 97 with 65K miles. I can get the stuff in Phoenix for the same price, because its subsidised by the gov. 3.00 a gallon. Well I went down there on the way to LA. I filled the tank with the stuff. I drove to LA and everything was just perfect. About half way down on my journey I put some regular diesel into the tank. I got to LA being very proud of my non modified MB running on the B100. The honeymoon was over 48 hours later. I went out to my car and I had a pretty good leak. I took it to HB Benz and they removed my intake manifold and removed all of these bullSxxt plastic cliped gas lines. They also replace shutoff valve and some other bits. Cost me 400 bucks. The nighmare was not over. 1 week later I removed the top intake myself and replaced all the rubber return lines to all 6 cyl. Each one of these reseviors was full of diesel. I believe the plastic gas lines were suspect and all the other parts were shotgun replaced, as they missed these returns. I am now very gun shy (wallet shy) of running on this stuff. I think the stuff will eat rubber, Why else would all 6 rubber return lines fail at the same time?

(in reply to ncof300d)

Post #: 10