Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (Full Version)

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Pyrometer and Boost gauges??


  

ajrn -> Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/26/2007 1:45:51 AM)

Okay-- I've bought an '81 240D..

Seems like you have to beat that thing like an ugly step kid to get it on the highway..  I guess I'm worried I'll beat it to death..

The downpipe off the exhaust head of mine is SHOT..  Since I have to replace it-- I'm thinking about having someone weld a port for a pyrometer in it-- just so I can monitor EGT.. 

Will someone whos' done this give me some background on doing it-- or any advice they're willing to share...

In the next few weeks.. I'll also be getting an '85 300SD..  I'm considering a boost gauge as WELL as a pyrometer there.. 

If someone's done these, and wouldn't mind posting pics, or anything to 'direct' me a little-- let me know..

The SD will be likely used this fall for a 75 mile one way commute starting this fall..  I want to do everything I can to make it a reliable vehicle for my girlfriend to drive.. 

I'm making biodiesel-- in small amounts now, and plan on increasing my production...  But I have to keep the vehicles on the road, to make it doable..

AJ RN


  

ForcedInduction -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/26/2007 2:10:11 AM)

There is really no need for a pyrometer unless you are going to be significantly modifying the engine's performance. If you are just going to adjust the ALDA and get the boost to 12-13psi, a pyrometer is $300 overkill (Especially on a 240D).


ajrn -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/26/2007 9:05:22 AM)

Forced..

I'd been considering Propane Fumigation (especially for the 240D), for a smidge more power getting on the highway--

I guess I wasn't clear 'bout that part..


ForcedInduction -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/27/2007 12:13:29 AM)

That would be different. In that case, just remove the exhaust manifold and drill/tap a hole near a point where all the exhaust collects. The further away from that collection point you are, the less accurate your reading will be.


ajrn -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/27/2007 9:36:51 AM)

So putting it in the downpipe isn't going to be accurate enough??

I was hoping, since I'd be replacing that-- it'd be a good place.. I was going to have a port welded in, before installed it.  The metal, being new, would be easier to work with..

...Oh, and I didn't want to have to pull the exhaust manifold!!

I guess if that's the only way to do it correctly-- Sigh.. :)

Let me know.. I was only talking a few inches from the exhaust head/downpipe union..

AJ RN




ForcedInduction -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/27/2007 10:59:58 PM)

The exhaust cools pretty quickly as it leaves the engine. A few inches from the manifold could mean a few hundred degrees.


ajrn -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/28/2007 3:39:10 AM)

Rules, Rules, Rules.. [:@]

I'll go "close" to the manifold, and at least be able to differentiate a "difference" when I'm fumigatin'.. 

I'm really hesitant to drill into that exhaust manifold.. It's got a nice coat of rust on it-- and I think that's what's holding it together! [;)]

Downpipe for now-- maybe a new manifold when I pull the engine to put into something else.. (My goal for the 240D motor is to go into a Ranger sized pickup, down the road..)

AJ


ForcedInduction -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/28/2007 4:09:53 AM)

It will work for the interm. Just keep it under ~1200*f.


ajrn -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/28/2007 5:59:05 AM)

My thoughts were-- whatever it is (temp wise) without the propane fogger, maybe allow it to go a hundred higher, or 1200F, which was lower..


ForcedInduction -> RE: Pyrometer and Boost gauges?? (2/28/2007 11:53:58 PM)

You can run any amount of whichever fuel, just don't let it get past that magical 1200*f mark.


  

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