RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid

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RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid

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RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/7/2007 11:14:22 AM

gugufut3

Posts: 12
Joined: 6/7/2007
Status: offline

I'm considering a 1987 300sdl which has a crack in the head from overheating. What do you think about a machine specialist at a head shop welding and resurficing the crack?

(in reply to ForcedInduction)

Post #: 21

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/7/2007 8:02:22 PM

gugufut3

Posts: 12
Joined: 6/7/2007
Status: offline

Well Tom from the way the car sounds if they have some service records on the maintenance. I say go for it, there has to be a cause for the problem with the heads on these vehicles they dont just crack from age. Something hs o cause the car to overheat and thats not good for any car diesel or not.

(in reply to mowoc)

Post #: 22

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/8/2007 8:46:55 AM

mowoc

Posts: 2
Joined: 6/3/2007
Status: offline

Thanks, I did buy the car. :)

Man is it beautiful. It is at the dealer right now getting some minor maintenance done (brake flush and Radiator flush). It turns out the car has never over heated, and that the maintenance records go back quite a few years. I could not get the original owners records though, he died and the car was sold in the estate sale. I am pretty sure he kept it up as well though.

One question though, should I worry about the timing chain? I was told by the dealer that the chain was good to 180k. What do y'all think? I read horror stories about them.... No rattle nor any other sign of trouble yet.

(in reply to gugufut3)

Post #: 23

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/11/2007 10:53:10 PM

PerkHouse

Posts: 5
Joined: 8/7/2006
From: High Point, NC
Status: offline

I'm considering a '96 E300D and I noticed at the beginning of this thread it specified a "buy" would be the non-turbo. Did this year/model come in a turbo? I haven't seen the car in person yet, so before I waste the fuel, can I tell by the VIN whether it's turbo or not?

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Brian

(in reply to mowoc)

Post #: 24

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/12/2007 1:13:46 PM

Neon

Posts: 31
Joined: 9/15/2006
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: PerkHouse

I'm considering a '96 E300D and I noticed at the beginning of this thread it specified a "buy" would be the non-turbo. Did this year/model come in a turbo? I haven't seen the car in person yet, so before I waste the fuel, can I tell by the VIN whether it's turbo or not?

The '96-'97 E300 are non-turbo, while the '98 and '99's are turbo-charged. The VIN will also tell you. The non-turbo start with WDBJF20, the turbo start with WDBJF25

(in reply to PerkHouse)

Post #: 25

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/12/2007 1:27:04 PM

PerkHouse

Posts: 5
Joined: 8/7/2006
From: High Point, NC
Status: offline

Thanks Neon! The VIN does begin with WDBJF20.

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Brian

(in reply to Neon)

Post #: 26

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/22/2007 9:42:26 AM

6camaro9

Posts: 2
Joined: 6/6/2007
Status: offline

hi,
very new to MB and especially to diesel. i've been considering getting an MB and looking over the list of ones to get and one to avoid. i really like the older two door models of the 300, so i was thinking about a 300CD. on the list it says to get the non-turbo version of this car, my question is what's wrong with the turbo version.
thanks...

(in reply to PerkHouse)

Post #: 27

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 6/22/2007 11:15:08 AM

Charles Munn

Posts: 244
Joined: 8/19/2006
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: 6camaro9

hi,
very new to MB and especially to diesel. i've been considering getting an MB and looking over the list of ones to get and one to avoid. i really like the older two door models of the 300, so i was thinking about a 300CD. on the list it says to get the non-turbo version of this car, my question is what's wrong with the turbo version.
thanks...

I drive a 1982 300D turbo. It has 325,000 verified miles on the od, is rust free with an umblemished dash, a pleasure to drive, and has the same engine and turbo setup as the 300CD. The 300D turbos were only built from 1982 until 1985, including the 300CD, and IMHO, the 300D turbos are the strongest diesels Mercedes ever built.

Of course a well cared for 300CD with not more than 250,000 verifiable miles will fetch nearly twice as much money as the 4 door sedan and, again, IMHO opinion, is worth every penny and will only increase in value. Hell, if I could get a well cared for high milage 300CD turbo at a decent price, I'd even take one of those Calfornia 300CD's that Mercedes were forced to "jury rig" for the California market. .
Best wishes,
charlie

< Message edited by Charles Munn -- 6/22/2007 11:21:39 AM >

_____________________________

1982 300D T, 322,000miles
1991 Lexus LS400 212,000 miles
1986 GMC, HD, "J", 429,000 Km
All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident.
Arthur Schopenha

(in reply to 6camaro9)

Post #: 28

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 7/1/2007 11:57:03 AM

guinness.stout

Posts: 3
Joined: 7/1/2007
Status: offline

New memeber and first time post to the forum but not new to Mercedes. I have been considering a 91-95 300SD. I'm really glad I found this forum since that year is on the do not buy list. It seems everyone is mentioning the overheading and cracking of heads due to the over heating. I had a couple questions.

1. What is the cause of the over heating?

2. Does this occur at a specific mileage on the vehical?

3. Is there a way for a NON mechnic like myself to tell if the car has ever overheaded (besides an obvious visual crack on the heads?

(in reply to Charles Munn)

Post #: 29

RE: Diesels to Buy/Avoid - 7/3/2007 9:35:33 PM

goatmissile

Posts: 1
Joined: 7/3/2007
Status: offline

Hello. This is my first post here, and I am glad I found this forum. You all sound like some knowledgable wrenchers.
I just bought a 1983 (production mid 1982) wagon 300 turbo, the 5 cyl. 3 liter.
It was owned by a conservative woman who clearly drove very little. I immediately replaced the tires; they were of 1994 vintage. She has a major oil leak, and the alternator just died, but the compression is good; I live in San Francisco and she climbs like a goat. 250,000 miles. I was wondering if any of you can advise me upon the most important things to take care of as regards roadworthyness. Clearly, I need to take care of the leak, wherever it is coming from, and I already ordered the alternator/voltage regulator from Autohaus out of Arizona. Any advice would be appreciated.

C

(in reply to guinness.stout)

Post #: 30