brookings
Posts: 135
Joined: 6/1/2007
Status: offline
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I agree that the standard procedure should be the best way to go. I have had an on going fight with my top for a while and has been a real experience. It''s still up for grabs if I''ve leaned anything.....Sometimes these systems are fickle... well, I got my controller back for the second time and the top has been working flawlessly so far, keeping my fingers crossed. If the normal way of synchronization won''t work, try doing it with the top down. This top down synchronization is normally used for replacing the old controller up to 96 with an updated controller only, etc or so I thought. Even with my top working good now, I couldn''t get the top and windows to synchronize with the top up. Go figure.  so tried it with the top down and presto. so It can''t hurt if it won''t work anyway with the top up or if you can''t get the windows to roll up with the top up. why not try it? well then I found my instructions to my two week old rebuilt controller and if I read it the first place, but thought I was so smart, everybody knows you have the top up to synchronize the top. well, I''ll send you a copy of the instructions, if you want proof, but according to them you manually put the top into it''s compartment first with the key out of the ignition, etc,etc. Hey, this may only apply to this scenario. but the long and the short of it is, READ YOUR INSTRUCTIONS, saves you plenty of grief  I still won''t rule out putting the top up either, If it won''t work down, why not try it with it up? BBA re-manufacturing also say to hold down on the switches for 5 seconds. I added an extra second to make sure one holds down on it long enough, over kill.
< Message edited by brookings -- 6/29/2008 2:18:51 PM >
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Dead Battery ! - 
