manual or auto?
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manual or auto? - 6/13/2008 9:58:28 PM
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RVA 4x4
Posts: 2
Joined: 6/13/2008 Status: offline
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First post. I currently own a 88 4Runner with a solid axle swap and 35''s. Along with a bunch of other mods. It is my daily driver and gets about 15 mpg. So now I''m looking at purchasing a diesel Mercedes. I looked at the what to buy what not to buy post but I didn''t see anything about automatic or manual transmissions. There is currently a 82 240d with a 4 speed manual for sale near me. Is there any problems with them I should know about? Usually manuals get better mileage, performance, and life. Is this true with these cars? The car has 225k miles on it and he''s asking $3200. They mentioned the right rear floor gets damp when it rains hard. Is that something that is common with these cars?
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RE: manual or auto? - 6/14/2008 3:45:03 AM
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ForcedInduction
 Posts: 736
Joined: 5/20/2006 From: Federal Heights, Colorado Status: offline
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quote:
Usually manuals get better mileage, performance, and life. Is this true with these cars? Its very true with the low powered 240D. 0-60mph times are 22 seconds for the manual and 25 seconds for the automatic. The automatic has a non-locking torque converter, its 70''s technology...the usual slushbox...so the difference is night and day. For a 240D with 225k miles and a water leak, $3200 is high. $2500-2800 is more its realistic value. quote:
Is there any problems with them I should know about? Acceleration is the only real issue. By today''s standards a 240D is extremely slow. You should try out a 300D, the MPG difference is not much (22-28mpg vs 25-32mpg) but the power difference is substantial.
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1980 240D 3.0VNTi 216K Miles. OM617.95, GT2256V VNT turbo, 4-speed manual, Intercooler, 3.46 diff, 15mm rear swaybar, ALDA removed, no EGR and Amsoil by-pass oil filter. Currently 107HP and 195lb/ft of torque at the wheels. www.youtube.com/Turbo617
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RE: manual or auto? - 6/14/2008 7:07:27 AM
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cycleboy
Posts: 62
Joined: 1/21/2008 Status: offline
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If the floor is getting damp there are a few possible issues. Does it have a sunroof? Is it sealed properly? This is an easy fix assuming the body is straight. How about the rear window leaking? Will the seller let you remove the rear seat back to look for staining? Expensive fix and should knock a considerable sum off the asking price. Check the door and window seals. A torn seal is a likely culprit and an easy fix. The last likelihood is a rusted through hole in the body or a split weld. These are much more expensive to fix and also symptomatic of bigger problems down the road. These should be a deal breaker unless you get the price down to the $500-$1000 range.
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