glow plug install in 98 e-class
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RE: glow plug install in 98 e-class - 5/6/2008 8:05:37 PM
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sleepwalker

 Posts: 7020
Joined: 4/12/2004 From: Philippine Islands Status: offline
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no. must remove the intake manifold. just avoid dropping anything inside for it will be difficult to remove.
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RE: glow plug install in 98 e-class - 5/6/2008 9:15:13 PM
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ForcedInduction
 Posts: 672
Joined: 5/20/2006 From: Federal Heights, Colorado Status: offline
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Get the engine hot to soften the carbon. Don't do it with a cold engine or you risk breaking one off in the head. Breaking one off means the engine's head has to come off to extract it.
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1980 240D 3.0VNTi 216K Miles. OM617.95, GT2256V VNT turbo, 4-speed manual, Intercooler, 3.46 diff, 15mm rear swaybar, ALDA removed, no EGR and Amsoil by-pass oil filter. Currently 107HP and 195lb/ft of torque at the wheels. www.youtube.com/Turbo617
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RE: glow plug install in 98 e-class - 5/7/2008 12:19:18 PM
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pimpernell
Posts: 15
Joined: 5/16/2007 Status: offline
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the other posters have given you good advice regarding the glow plugs. I would get in a good supply of PB Blaster, and a product called Freeze-Off, which are both sold at most auto supply stores. When taking out the glow plugs, use a deep 6 sided socket, and if any resistance is encountered, use plenty of PB blaster along with Freeze-Off. Most of the time, when a plug refuses to budge, it is because of carbon buildup around the plug tip itself. Buru lists the breaking point of their plugs at around 45 N/m, so when I removed my plugs, I used a torque wrench when space allowed, and tried to stay within that amount of force. Patience is the key word here, and it took me 6 days of spraying, and moving the plugs in incremental amounts in order to get them all out in one piece. Five of my plugs were carbon bound, and without the sprays, proper tools and a lot of patience I could have met with the disaster as mentioned by Forced Induction.....Good luck!!
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