ML320 Would not Start sunday.

then it started. then didnt start at work. waited 14 minutes..then it started.
1998 ML320 101,000 miles.

AAM (all activity module) got CAN (controller area network) interruption signal to EIS (electronic ignition switch).

Does that translate to brain fart?

mainly if the car cannot start, it is the engine control unit that's faulty, but this M-Class is one of kind.

whenever the customer calls the "car cannot start", i immediately grab an AAM control unit.

My ML onlyu failed to start one more time. The last couple days it started. I stopped using the "Blade key" that I have used exclusively for the past 18 months.

one mechanic advised not to use that one.

using the keyless go card is another story.

sometimes you will get interruptions, low battery on the card, or antennas inside the door.

di you get the "check card" message?

No check card message. I drove it successfully 3 days - started great.
Then it took two try's to start leaving the store today. Unnerving.

card location signal frequency problem.

it will easily recognise the card if you hold it near the door because there is antenna reciever on every door.

I thought the antenna was in the circle where the key went into the ignition.
My truck failed to start yesterday. waited 30 minutes and it started.
Now I notice a buzzing noise behind the intake manifold when the key is on and engine not running.
Any ideas what that could be ?

I thought maybe I needed a fuel pump or flter, but it goes 90MPH + and small spray came out of the fuel tubing check valve.

so the blade key you mean is the flat key, and not card key.

the one on the ignition switch is called transponder. it reads the resistance signal from your key, and can identify it.

what you got behind the intake manifold that can produce this sound was the throttle valve and a diverter flap. if the throttle valve is losing the program on it's initial position, then it will try to keep on moving to search for it. it's more of a click than a buzz. better open the hood and listen where it's coming from.

i still think it was AAM.

how about change the new type fuel fiter with the fuel pressure regulator together.......just another way to think about.....

It started 8 times then would not start.
Waited 30 minutes and it started.

I ordered a Fuel pump.
That was my next step because I know what a fuel pump is.

If that doesnt cure it then ... any suggestions on what I should buy next ?
I read it could be....CPS or MAF or AAM or DAS or MAS or EIS or Bank angle sensor.

Here is the pliers I had in stock bought many years ago at farm and fleet, that made the fuel line removal a Breeze. Get the picture ?
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PS Things I fixed. Swapped out window switch, Cleaned EGR tube, stopped oil burning, changed oil, replaced rear shock with bilstein, updated fuel filter and lines.


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CPS, AAM, EIS, ATA.

better read the fault code and start from there.

you cannot swap the switch, but you can exchange the wiring so that the left window could be opened, but the right cannot.

I just meant in the past history of ML320 fixes-
I swapped the window switch from failed one to a new one. (replaced at 40,000 miles and 90,000 miles)

swapped= Changed or replaced.

My primary project now is the reliability problem.
SOme write for sure its the fuel pump.
Some write its the Crank Shaft position sensor. Which sounded overwhelming to me--I know where the crankshaft is..but turns out the sensor is only $100 held on by one mounting bold and an electric plug near the firewall.

we got two versions of fuel filter for this car.

the first one got the fuel filter only which seldom gets trouble, but the newer type with integrated fuel pressure regulator often gets broken.

having a handy fuel pressure gauge is a good thing. you might as well detect if the fuel pump is faulty.

it uses a schraeder valve which is very easy to access from under the hood.

before you start the engine, attach the gauge.... leave it in sight and crank.

it should not go below 2.8 bar in order to work properly. then... you can now tell if it is a fuel, electrical, mechanical, or a component problem.

So the origional filter that I replaced with a $97.00 upgrade, is a better more reliable, less troublesome, and less likely to break Fuel Filter.

Then Mercedes should call the Upgrade The DownGrade replacement Fuel filter.
The origionals are all used up. One can only replace with the more complicated
DownGrade. And I thought Mercedes was going to try to go less complicated in
The future.

Review: 99 ML320 101,000 miles.
3 weeks ago it suddenly would not start. Turned over fine. 30 minutes later started right up. Then it happened twice a week later. Then it started stalling at stop lights. 3 times it started right back up. Yesterday it stalled at a light...I had to push it off the road and it started in 5 minutes. then stalled then started I made it home.
Today I installed a NEW Mercedes $200 Fuel pump. Drove around my hood successfully for 3 minutes...then it stalled and failed to start for 10 minutes.

It behaves this way with all 3 keys. I am all ears ! ! Any more suggestions?

as i said, you should have tested the pressure first before replacing the pump.

are you doing the trial and error now?

what if it was just a crankshaft position sensor which costs much less than the fuel pump?

what if it was AAM?

Well sleep walker, I aint the sharpest tool in the shed.
I am at 100,000 miles and others had stalling trucks from fuel filters...so I changed mine..It is recommended maintenance anyway. . Also, on many of the early ML's the fuel guages read 3/4 full when full , with the origional float/fuel pumps. And several suggested to me it could be the fuel pump. So I tried.
Now tonight I thought I would check this crank shaft balance sensor. The connection came off with a little tug. I sprayed contact cleaner on both ends ..Then it "SNAPPED" back on. I test drove it 15 miles with no problem.
I am no where near celebrating, but hopeful it was a loose connection problem.
Thank you for the input.

To help you understand why I am this way..I worked my way thru HS and College at a service station.

AND, the last time I went to the dealer for a rough idle, they wanted to replace the EGR valve for $300. I said let me think about it. I got on the web, read it may be a plugged EGR Tube. I cleaned the tube with 50 cents worth of carb cleaner and a rag and wire and its run perfect for 10,000 miles. I trust my judgement. When I waste money on parts,,it's called tuition.

Steve
UPDATE CURED ! ! ! MY ML320 IS FIXED. It Needed one little sensor, $58.00 - installed with one bolt and one electric connection. It was the Crankshaft position sensor. Reference Sensor in the online parts books. YAHOO.

that clears it. a very reasonable move you have done.

learning is really a good thing, and only by hard experience that we can trully rely on instinct.

have a nice day steve.